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You Don't Know the Power of the Dark Side!
by Belly Buddy Mark Stevens
At A Glance
Beer: DeGroen's Dunkles
Pros: Soft, smooth, rounded malt flavor Cons: Limited distribution area The Bottom Line: DeGroen's Dunkles might be the finest example of this classic German dark beer -- here's why... Recommended: Yes
William Cowper once wrote, "Variety is the very spice of life."
We've all heard the words before, but if I judge from sales figures in the beer industry, few people take the words heart. I can only pity the dull and meager existence that these average beer drinkers must live. In my own life, I find that the best and most exciting things are the things that I experience only rarely -- or for the very first time. Most of us can remember our first kiss. But when was it that we started wiping our lips right away after a kiss so as to get rid of the waxy feel of lipstick?
If you know what I'm talking about, and you're looking for something new to try, how about a bottle of smooth malty dunkles? And while you're at it, why not reach for one of the best American-brewed examples out there -- DeGroen's Dunkles...
What I Expect to Find in any Dunkles...
The word "dark" to a German is spelled "dunkle" and the dunkle style of beer can be a fascinating corner to explore in the magic beer kingdom. Dunkles beers are staples of German brewing tradition, and are most often associated with the Franconia region.
When I'm tasting a classic dunkles style lager beer, I'm looking for craftsmanship and attention to traditional German brewing methods. I pay particular attention to the malt character.
Malt is the key to a great dunkles -- and not just any malt -- it's got to be Munich malt. A beer made with ordinary pale malt and high-kilned malts for color just isn't going to cut it in my glass! I want to taste the signature complexity that Munich malt brings to the table, with its somewhat biscuit-like or toasty edge to it. I want to taste malt character that reminds me of how the edges of a crisp shortbread cookie taste. I don't want to taste chocolate malt, not the coffee or burnt edge of black malt, nor the toffee-like flavor of crystal and caramel malt. The malt should come across as smooth and sophisticated, not as sweet and caramel.
Dunkles is generally well balanced. Like other beer styles that emphasize malt character over hops, the beer will taste somewhat sweet, but sweetness is not a characteristic of a good dunkles. Strong hop aromas and flavors are also out of character for this beer style. Hops are used -- but to balance, not to overwhelm (we'll leave that wonderful kind of emphasis to pilsners and IPAs).
Dunkles are not strong beers -- they're brewed to normal gravity (about 12 Plato -- or 1050 if you're on the OG scale) and they have about the same alcohol level as most mainstream lager beers. In terms of color, the beers are usually deep brown to almost black.
Dunkles is a deliciously fascinating style with a proud tradition behind it. To find out more about what really earns a beer the right to be calle "dunkles", and to see how you can tell a real dunkles apart from similar styles (like porter or alt), see my review here.
What I Find in DeGroen's Dunkles...
Tall polished pilsner glasses might be the perfect glass for serving pale lagers, but they make for a stunning presentation of dark lagers as well...
Appearance:
This is an absolutely beautiful glass of beer with its deep ruby red hues slowly reaching towards soft black. It pours with a creamy tawny colored head which leaves beautiful lace down the sides of the glass.
Aroma:
When I first pass the glass under my nose I get a sweet sensation with just a little bit of the smell of freshly baked cookies. A second pass comes across with more of the toast character that I was looking for -- like the smell of a barely browned slice of fresh bread. I pick up no hops in the nose and no off flavors that would indicate any sort of brewing or handling fault.
Flavor:
Smells and looks are one thing, but taste is what counts. This beer tastes great! It's so smooth and well-rounded that I can't help but think of Kojak's head -- uh, sorry -- it's been one of those days. Where was I? Oh yeah, taste. While I'd have to say that the balance is tipped towards the malt side of the scale, I don't mean to imply that the brew is in any way syrupy or cloying -- it's not. The balance is extremely well done and even though this is malty, it's drier in mouthfeel than a bock or oktoberfest might be. The dark Munich malt gives the beer a lot of complexity and soft light roast flavor. Overall, an absolutely delicious beer that I could easily drink throughout the course of an evening.
Beer and Food
Dunkles is a beer that can stand up to a pretty robust meal, but when I'm sitting at the bar in the Baltimore Brewing Company, I love drinking this beer with one of the big Brewery Burgers served with beer batter onion rings and some blue cheese.
About the Brewery... Baltimore Brewing Company has been a fixture of downtown Baltimore for more than a decade. If you're visiting the National Aquarium or Little Italy, you're mere steps away from one of the finest lager craft breweries in the United States. Why not stroll over to the corner of Pratt and President (I-83) and taste what mid-Atlantic beer connoisseurs have been raving about for years. (Hmm. Come to think of it, judging from the number of medals that BBC earned in past Great American Beer Festival (GABF) competitions, I don't think it's just mid-Atlantic beer drinkers who love the stuff!)
Owner and brewmaster Theo DeGroen is a European brewer whose family makes Grolsch. DeGroen was educated at Munich's prestigious Weihenstephan Institute (where Germany's top brewmasters have been trained since the year 1040).
The brewery itself is large and modern, despite the impression of patina of age and history that the rustic brick exterior conveys. Step down into the cavernous tasting room and admire the gleaming copper brewing vessels behind the bar -- and yes, they're functional -- not like some brewpubs that put big copper kettles behind the bar that are actually refrigerators or storage closets. If you stop by on a weekday afternoon you may have the pleasure of watching a batch being brewed as you relax over a tall glass of cool lager beer.
Most of the brewing work though does take place behind the scenes. That door to the left of the back bar leads into a huge warehouse like area that's lined with rows of stainless steel cylindroconical fermentation vessels and lagering tanks, not to mention pallet after pallet of 50 pound sacks of German malt. Hops are also imported from Germany, and I presume the yeast is a German lager strain too, although DeGroen doesn't want to specify which strain -- have to keep the competition guessing, you understand...
Last Sip...
I love a good glass of dunkles, and while quite a few U.S. craft brewers have made good renditions of the style, I really feel that DeGroen's Dunkles is the one that stands head and shoulders above the crowd. It's got the rounded, complex malt character that I look for, it's got a great balance, it's smooth and drinkable, and best of all, it tastes GREAT! Try a glass...
1terrible» worst ever 11Joey Ramone» Awesome beer dudes and dudettes! 8WonderBoy» Hey boys. Yummy luv. Like a dark tasty womanly crime. All ripe and sh,sh,shiny like, boys. Yes,boys. Taste the cap for extra gladness boys. 8Joe Parizo» I've never had this beer, but it sounds good as hell. I will keep my eye out.
Key:9 Rating RED» Guests GREEN» Registered Buddy
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